![]() And that is a broken timing belt with 30 bent valves in the top end of the engine. That would be a preferred situation if you could choose between the two.Įither way, you need to figure this out post haste before the unthinkable happens. There is a possibility the serpentine belt tensioner bearing has gone bad causing it squeal. If it looks like it has any deformation, melted or displaced rubber, DO NOT run the engine any more. The top side or smooth side of the belt should be smooth with wear lines in it. You need to remove the upper plastic timing belt covers and inspect your timing belt. The water pump impeller is known to come loose on the shaft, causing it to either not spin or spin at such a low RPM that it can't pump enough coolant to keep the engine at normal temperature. If indeed this is the case, your timing belt will snap and you'll have a whole crate full of issues to deal with.īased on your post, it my estimated guess that the water pump has failed. There is a roller tensioner on the timing belt that sometimes are known to seize up. The squealing might be coming from timing belt, and that is serious business. After starting the car, does the mechanical fan turn? I'm guessing it does. This something you don't want to play around with and waste anytime diagnosing. If you get squealing on one of the belts, something is wrong. The other belt, (the timing belt) is underneath the plastic covers behind the serpentine belt. That drives the alternator, power steering pump, a/c, and the mechanical fan (fan on the drivers side of the radiator). The belt that is visible is the serpentine belt. Turn ignition on.Ok, The V6 has two belts on it. ![]() Disconnect the coolant level sensor and wait the coolant light will flash.ġ2 Turn ignition of to reset fault. Turn ignition on coolant light is off.ġ1. Turn ignition off to reset the fault condition and refit the gauge.ġ0. When you remove the gauge you will see the flashing coolant light return.ĩ. Refit the gauge and test in vehicle coolant light is off.Ĩ. Use a pair of long nose pliers to close the connectors on the pcb so they are a tighter fit on the gauge connectors.ħ. Clean the connectors on the PCB and the gauge with IPA or switch cleaner.Ħ. The fault is the push fit connectors that attach the gauge to the instrument cluster PCB.ĥ. I traced the circuit and found it is located in the combined temperature fuel gauge.Ĥ. The problem is the circuit that decides if the coolant light should flash or not.ģ. ![]() ![]() Remove the instrument cluster there is an great guide on youtubeĢ. Here's what fixed my problem and it only took me six weeks to work outġ. Looks like it must be an instrument cluster problem but my cluster does not show any signs of the well know regulator problem.Īll my guages read correctly and never miss a beat. Measured the capacitance of the coolant level sensor at approx 25uF. dropping to approx 300 ohms a 300 degrees CĤ. My matched the curves available on a google search. It's a thermistor so it's value depends on the coolant temperature. Measured the resistance of the of the sensor on the engine block. Measured the voltage at the other sensor on the engine block that can turn on the coolant light 5vdc this is correct.ģ. Measured the voltage at the loom connector for the coolant sensor. Replaced the coolant with 50% G13 mix and replaced the coolant reservoir at the same time.ġ. Flushed the coolant out three times with waterģ. I noticed the coolant was blue (not G13 which is pink)Ģ. I purchased the van 6 weeks ago and the Coolant warning light was flashing from day 1ġ. ![]()
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